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Champagne Bedel

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Champagne Bedel

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Champagne Bedel

Francoise Bedel ist nun in der dritten Generation Winzerin. Sie möchte ihren Kindern und Enkeln ein Weingut mit gesunden, vitalen Böden übergeben und hat sich daher im Jahre 1988 entschlossen, auf biodynamischen Weinbau umzustellen. Sie verzichtet auf jeden Einsatz von Kunstdünger und Chemie in ihren Weinbergen, die sich auf verschiedene Orte entlang des Flusses Marne erstrecken. Sie ist der tiefen Überzeugung, dass nur der sorgsame natürliche Umgang mit der Natur herausragende Weine mit terroirspezifischen Charakter hervorzubringen vermag.

Auf knapp 7 ha werden die drei klassischen Rebsorten der Champagne kultiviert: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay und Pinot Meunier, der bei Bedels mit 78 Prozent den größten Anteil ausmacht. Pinot Meunier ist eine Mutation von Pinot Noir und bringt sehr fruchtige Weine hervor. Im Gegensatz zu Pinot Noir treibt er später aus und reift früher, was gerade in der frostgefährdeten Champagne einen unschätzbaren Vorteil darstellt. Der Säuregehalt des Pinot Noir ist etwas geringer, er gibt dem Champagner die Tiefe. Chardonnay verleiht ihm in seiner Jugend eine gewisse Kargheit und Eleganz, die sich mit zunehmender Reife in Frucht und Fülle umwandelt.

Die beiden dunklen Rebsorten Pinot Noir und Pinot Meunier müssen sehr rasch abgepresst werden, damit weißer Most ohne rötliche Farbtöne gewonnen werden kann. Für die Pressung verwenden Bedels immer noch die traditionelle senkrechte Willmes-Korbpresse, die 4000 kg und damit ein Marc, das Standardmaß der Champagne, umfasst. Die Vinifikation erfolgt in traditionellen Fässern. Selbst beim Rütteln und Drehen der Flaschen legen Bedels noch selbst Hand an.

In der Champagne werden Winzer wie die Bedels immer seltener. Seit langem dominieren die 10 größten Hersteller über 70 % der immerhin mittlerweile 328 Millionen Flaschen pro Jahr umfassenden Produktion. Die weltweit stark steigende Nachfrage wird den Druck hinsichtlich Erträgen und Mechanisierung noch erhöhen. Die Folgen für die Qualität und die Verträglichkeit sind fraglich. Die ersten Produzenten haben bereits in Südengland Grund erworben, der den in der Champagne vorkommenden Kreideböden vergleichbar ist, und dort die ersten Rebstöcke gepflanzt. Umso schöner ist es, dass es noch Winzer, wie die Bedels gibt, die sich dem Druck einer immer stärkeren Kommerzialisierung nicht beugen und hochqualitative, individuelle Champagner auf natürliche Art herstellen.